The Dualit Vario toaster makes great toast, looks stunning and is built to last. This two-slice model has a classic stainless steel finish. The slots are 28 mm wide with self-adjusting wire guards to automatically accommodate a broad range of bread thicknesses. The slots also support the separately available sandwich cage, which is a useful addition for making toasted sandwiches, buns and crumpets, though it is possible to toast the latter without a cage.
The Dualit is a sturdy beast with a retro look. It weighs in at around 3.5 kg and has minimal controls, all with a reassuringly solid feel. The red backlit slot selector switch lights up to tell you when the toaster is in use and can be set for one or two slices. This is important, as the toaster uses a patented ProHeat element that is optimised to quickly produce evenly cooked toast. However, the element's lifespan may be shortened if a slot is regularly heated while empty. A black rotary time switch means that you need to determine how long you want to toast each and every time you use the Dualit, rather than relying on a default setting as seen with other toasters.
One of the advantages of the Dualit toaster is that the bread doesn't pop up when the timer is finished. Instead, you need to press down the central black ejector knob to remove your toast. This ensures that your toast stays warm for longer if you are not there to remove it straightaway. Another component of note is a useful slide-out crumb tray. Results are impressive, with beautifully even toasting in all slots and up to 65 slices per hour (two medium slices from cold takes around 2 minutes). However, the most compelling reason for putting a Dualit toaster in your kitchen is its perfect blend of durability and style.